Reclaimed wood certificate of authenticity — what should it contain?
"Certificate of authenticity" is a phrase anyone can print. The useful question isn't whether a piece comes with one — it's whether the certificate says anything a buyer can actually check. Most don't. They're a signature on nice paper.
What a real one names
A certificate that's worth the paper identifies the individual timber, not the category. At minimum:
- The piece — a stable ID for this specific member, so the certificate can't be quietly moved to a different board.
- Source — the structure it was salvaged from, and where in it (wall, course, position) if that was recorded.
- Species and dimensions — measured, not estimated.
- Photographs — of that piece, tied to the record so they can't be swapped.
- Custody — who recorded what, and when, in an order that can't be rearranged after the fact.
The part most certificates skip: verifiability
Here's the difference that matters. A signed PDF says "trust me." A verifiable certificate lets the buyer confirm the record themselves — that the photos match the piece, that nothing was edited after it was signed, that the claims trace back to a known source. The trust moves from "because the seller said so" to "because you checked."
That's the whole point of tying a certificate to a signed, tamper-evident record and a scannable link. A buyer scans, and verification runs in their own browser. They never have to take anyone's word for it.
What an honest certificate won't claim
A trust product that overclaims isn't one. A good provenance certificate is careful about its edges:
How to read one you're handed
- Does it identify the specific piece, or just the lot? Lot-level "authenticity" is nearly meaningless once boards are separated.
- Can you verify it without calling the seller? If the only proof is their say-so, treat it as a marketing claim.
- Does it state what it doesn't cover? Certificates that claim everything are the ones to distrust.